Traditional photography — or rather photography as most expect it to be — requires the camera to be held steady and the subject to be sharp. Intentional Camera Movement (or ICM) turns that ideal on its head. By using a long shutter speed, the photographer can deliberately move the camera to paint with light and accentuate the tone and texture of the subject. In doing so, we can create stunning impressionist, abstract or minimalist images.
With ICM, the rule book goes (almost) completely out the window and, strictly speaking, there is no right or wrong, but here are my tips to help get you started.
Getting started with ICM
Equipment
One of the great things about ICM is that you don’t need any additional equipment to get started. You just need a camera that allows you to manually adjust the shutter speed. We need to do that manual adjustment because a long shutter speed gives us time to make deliberate movements with the camera while the shutter is open.
Achieving a correctly-exposed image that uses a long shutter speed is (relatively) straight-forward in low light, but can be more difficult to achieve during bright daylight hours. In this instance it can be helpful to have a neutral density (ND) filter. ND filters decrease the amount of light entering the camera, allowing you to use a longer shutter speed than would otherwise be possible, without overexposing the image.
Choosing a subject
I don’t typically set out with the intention of using ICM: I find the subject first and let that guide the technique that I choose. When I’m inspired to create an image using intentional camera movement, it is usually because I am drawn to the tones and the textures of the view or subject in front of me, rather than (or as well as) wanting to capture it authentically.
For example, I might want to highlight the vertical lines in a forest, the wind in the trees, the sense of calm and pastel colors of the sea at sunset, or the gentle curves of a rich green hosta leaf. I am looking for specific details or feelings, and I use movement to accentuate them.
Camera Settings
With a long shutter speed we have to adjust the exposure triangle to compensate for the length of time that the camera is letting in light by keeping the ISO low and the aperture narrow. Shooting in manual mode, you will first set the ISO to 100 (or as low as you can). Then set, as a starting point, your narrowest aperture (highest f-stop), which might be f/22 or f/32, for example. Please note, ordinarily adjusting the aperture to this extreme would have a big impact on the final image. However, in the case of ICM, aperture is going to have relatively little impact; we just need to be letting in less light to compensate for the length of time that the shutter stays open.
Depending somewhat on the available light, my starting point with shutter speed tends to be around 0.3 seconds. I’ll make adjustments to shutter speed as I go, increasing or decreasing the shutter speed so that I have time to make camera movements that will give me the desired effect while still correctly exposing the image. 0.3 seconds is a length of time I have become really familiar with and I know that it works for the movements I tend to make. With some experimentation you’ll soon get to know what feels right for you.
There are no real limits to how slow the shutter speed can be if your available light allows it, but I’d suggest not going faster than 1/20 of a second for natural subjects (where people are involved it is a different story and the subject for another post). Any faster than that and the movement can look unintentional. If need be, adjust your aperture so that your light meter/histogram shows you an exposure level that you’re happy with. To minimize noise, you should always aim to get the exposure right in camera.
In terms of focus, if you’re working with a macro subject, manual focus can help refine the image, but otherwise auto focus works perfectly for landscape images because you’re not necessarily looking for specific sharpness.
Shooting with Intentional Camera Movement
I’m going to be honest, if you’re in a public place, a busy beach for instance, you might get some funny looks as you wave your camera back and forth. You may even get some questions from passers-by who want to know if you know what you’re doing because “you know you’re supposed to keep the camera steady, right?!” (Yep, I’ve been there.)
But ignore those comments and give these ICM techniques a try:
Panning
Panning is a really great way to get started with ICM. As you open the shutter, move your camera in a single smooth horizontal or vertical motion. With my movements I hold my camera to my eye with my elbows tucked in tightly, turning my whole body to ensure that the movement is smooth.
Start by following the lines you see in your subject: the horizontal horizon of a seascape or the vertical trees, for instance. You can then mix it up and try the opposite. See how that changes the mood and the texture of the image that you create. You might even be able to fit a back-and-forth movement into the available time your shutter is open.
Rotation
Rotating the camera can also make interesting compositions. You could try this with trees when you want to highlight the wind or movement in the canopy rather than the trunks, or perhaps on something a bit more abstract, like the photo of fire shown below.
Zooming and vibrating
If you have a zoom lens, zooming in or out while the shutter is open leaves an interesting central patch of focus, blurring the edges of the frame. However, for a more impressionist look with a recognizable subject, you can vibrate the camera.
Freestyle movement
When my subject is calling for something a little different, I will try freestyle movements. For example, I will follow the curve of a leaf, the bend of a tree trunk, or the flow of the waves up the beach. And sometimes, I’ll just move however the mood takes me!
This image was taken from a moving vehicle and combined with additional movements of the camera (I had to work hard not to include any of the car itself). You see, there are no limitations to the way you can move!
Creative timing
With any of these movements you can also experiment with when you move, either starting your movement before you open the shutter for the cleanest of lines, or starting your movement part way through the exposure so that pieces of the image are frozen within the frame.
Creative speed
As you experiment with the type of intentional camera movement that you make, you should also experiment with the speed of your movements. Here you can see the difference between small and fast movements. Although you can see what the subject matter is in both images, the faster, larger movements make for a more abstract, minimalist final image.
Fine tune your ICM technique.
Different intentional camera movement techniques can take your images from completely abstract to more recognizable. Some may prefer being able to easily identify the subject matter, while others prefer a more minimalist or modern art feel. It’s worth remembering that usual compositional rules should probably still apply if it is going to be pleasing to the viewer, especially for dear Aunt Sal who may not “get” what you’re trying to achieve.
As you experiment you’ll quickly develop your own preferences for the final result. For instance, when photographing in a forest, I try to avoid any strong highlights coming through the trees because they create harsh bright stripes with an abrupt finish. These highlights can draw the viewer’s eye and therefore compromise the final image. If it is a bright day, I will try to start or finish my movements beneath the horizon line, focusing more on the path through the trees, for example, or using smaller movement in a downwards motion.
Importantly, remember to have fun and create for yourself. So much of this technique is trial and error. What works for one subject and one photographer, may not work for another, and ultimately the results are subjective. Think of the frame as your canvas, have fun and enjoy the process. You are an artist, painting with light, with tone and with texture. Go out there and get creative!
Photos by Ceri Herd
More creative photography techniques to try:
7 Ways manual focus can improve your photography
How to break out of a creative rut: 10 photographers share their best advice
How photographing movement can completely change the mood of your images
3 Ways to break the rules of photography and give yourself a creative push
Ceri, this was fascinating to read. ICM is entirely new to me, and you explained the technique in a way that was very easy to understand. I’ve been very unmotivated to pick up my camera all month, and your images and tutorial has sure lit a fire in me. I cannot wait to try your tips this week. Thank you! (Btw, the traffic image blows me away!)
Ceri, this article is informative and absolutely stunning. I truly appreciate your thoughtful helpful teaching and I look forward to using these techniques in my art. I so appreciate the inspiration!
Liz, thank you so much for your lovely words! I’m so pleased you found the article helpful. I’m looking forward to seeing what you create!